Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
